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PD Media Self-Adhesive EVA Foam 5 mm, Black -
PD Media EVA Foam 5 mm, Black -
PD Media Self-Adhesive EVA Foam 5 mm, White -
PD Media EVA Foam 5 mm, White, 50 × 100 cm -
PD Media Self-Adhesive EVA Foam 3 mm, black -
PD Media EVA foam 3 mm, black -
PD Media Self-Adhesive EVA Foam 3 mm, white -
PD Media EVA foam 3 mm, white -
PD Media EVA Foam, 2 mm, Black, 50 × 100 cm -
PD Media EVA Foam Sheet 2 mm, white, 50 × 100 cm -
PD Media Self-Adhesive EVA Foam, 50 × 100 cm, Green -
PD Media EVA Foam Sheet, 50 × 100 cm, Green -
PD Media Self-Adhesive EVA Foam Sheet, 50 × 100 cm, Yellow -
PD Media EVA Foam Sheet, 50 × 100 cm, Yellow -
PD Media Self-Adhesive EVA Foam 50 × 100 cm, Red -
PD Media EVA Foam Sheet 50 × 100 cm, Red
Craft boards and sheets are flat materials for models, dioramas, cosplay, photography and school projects: foam board, foamed PVC and other plastics, EVA foam, acrylic, aluminium composite panels and magnetic sheets. Foam board is very lightweight, EVA foam is flexible, aluminium composite panels are rigid and flat, and PET and acrylic are transparent. Choose a material according to whether the piece needs to be lightweight, rigid, flexible, transparent or weather-resistant.
Architects and students use craft boards and sheets for models; model makers use them for dioramas and terrain; cosplayers for armour; photographers for working with light; and children for school projects. Below, for each material you’ll find what it is, what it’s suitable for and what to cut and glue it with, followed by an ‘I want to make…’ table. If you’re building a model, also see diorama and model making materials – it explains which board to use for the base, walls and windows. Always test cutting, glue and paint on an offcut before you start.
Craft boards and sheets: which material for what
Craft boards and sheets: I want to make…
| What for | Pick |
|---|---|
| A quick study model of a building | 3–5 mm white or black foam board |
| A detailed, durable model built from scratch | 3 mm foamed PVC and 1 mm HIPS |
| A base that must not bend | 3 mm aluminium composite panel or 10 mm PVC Celuka |
| Windows or a dust cover | Clear 1 mm PET (thin), acrylic (thicker and rigid) |
| Armour or a mask | 5–10 mm EVA foam (lightweight, comfortable), or ABS and HIPS (hard shell, vacuum forming) |
| Terrain that will withstand play | EVA foam on a PVC base |
| Mounting a photograph or poster | Self-adhesive white 5 mm foam board |
| A mirrored effect or diffused light | 1 mm mirrored polystyrene, silver or gold; for diffused light, milky 1 mm PET |
How to cut craft boards and sheets straight
You can cut most boards with a craft knife and a steel ruler. Some can be cut through; others should be scored and snapped.
You will need:
cutting mat · steel ruler · craft knife (snap-off blade knife) · soft pencil or fine-tip marker · fine file or sanding block
- Place the material on the cutting mat and leave any protective film on it. Position the ruler against the side you want to keep.
- Mark the cutting line with a soft pencil or fine-tip marker.
- Hold the steel ruler firmly, keep your fingers flat and away from its edge, and guide the knife away from your body.
- Make several light passes instead of one hard cut. Cut through foam board, EVA foam and foamed PVC up to 3 mm; score HIPS, PET, thin acrylic and 3 mm aluminium composite panels only.
- Place the scored board with the groove against the edge of a table and carefully snap it away from the groove. You can also cut magnetic sheet with scissors.
- When the blade starts dragging the material, snap off a fresh section. Smooth the edge with a fine file or sanding block if needed.
How to choose glue for each material
There is no universal adhesive for all boards. The right choice depends on what the two pieces are made from.
You will need:
offcuts of both materials · adhesive suitable for the materials · clamps or masking tape · protective mat
- Identify what both pieces are made from. Many plastics look alike, so label your offcuts.
- Weld the same type of plastic with solvent adhesive: polystyrene (HIPS) with liquid plastic model cement, PVC with PVC adhesive, ABS with acetone or ABS adhesive, and acrylic with acrylic adhesive.
- Glue foams only with adhesives that will not damage them: use PVA or low-temperature hot-melt adhesive for foam board, and contact adhesive intended for foam for load-bearing joints in EVA foam (use a hot glue gun only for small details that will not bend).
- Join different materials with cyanoacrylate (small parts), two-part epoxy or PU adhesive, or double-sided tape (larger areas).
- Glue PET with strong double-sided tape or cyanoacrylate with primer; ordinary plastic adhesives will not hold on it.
- Test the joint on offcuts, leave it to cure according to the adhesive instructions, and ventilate when using solvent adhesives.
How to choose and test the right material
A quick test before a large project is worthwhile. It saves materials and work.
You will need:
list of requirements for the part · offcuts or smaller sheets · the knife, glue and paint you plan to use
- Decide what the part needs to withstand: indoor or outdoor use, transparency, bending, frequent handling or painting.
- Use the material descriptions and table above to choose two suitable materials.
- Check the tools you have: a knife alone can handle foam board, EVA foam, HIPS, PVC up to 3 mm, PET and magnetic sheet; thick PVC, ABS, thicker acrylic and aluminium composite panels are easier to cut with a saw.
- Start with a smaller sheet and test cutting, glue and paint on offcuts.
- If the test works, move on to a large sheet, 50 × 70 or 70 × 100 cm.
Tips for choosing and working with boards
- Foam board and EVA foam are lightweight; aluminium composite panels and Celuka are rigid and flat; HIPS and PVC are suitable for details; PET and acrylic are transparent.
- If you paint or cover an entire board (foam board, PVC), treat both sides – a coating on one side only will make it bend.
- Leave protective film on plastics until the work is completely finished.
- Before precision work, let the material adjust to room temperature; cold plastics are more brittle.
- Choose black material where you do not want a light-coloured edge to show or light to shine through.
- Sort and label offcuts by material – many plastics look alike.
- Solvent adhesive welds only the same type of plastic; use cyanoacrylate, two-part adhesive or tape to join different materials.
- When heat-forming, the board’s temperature matters, not the heat gun setting – measure it with a thermometer if possible.
✓ Do
- Choose adhesive to suit the material and test it on an offcut first.
- Ventilate when using solvent adhesives.
- Wear safety glasses when sawing and drilling plastics.
- Store boards flat.
- Cut on a cutting mat and away from your body.
- Always supervise children when they are using knives and a heat gun.
✗ Avoid
- Never burn PVC or laser-cut it – it releases hydrogen chloride.
- Do not laser-cut ABS either.
- Do not use solvent-based paints on foam board or EVA foam.
- Do not leave boards in direct sunlight or in a hot car.
- Do not store boards upright or rolled, and do not use foam board outdoors.
Handling, storage and cleaning
Store boards and sheets flat and horizontal, in a dry place at about 20 °C and out of direct sunlight; never leave them outside in their packaging, as heat will deform them. Carry large boards by two long edges; thin plastic sheets measuring 70 × 100 cm are best carried by two people. Leave protective film on plastics until the work is finished. Clean foamed PVC with isopropyl alcohol and acrylic and PET with water and mild soap; do not use acetone on PVC or acrylic. Store magnetic sheet flat and do not leave it with the magnetic sides stuck together for a long time.
Working safely
- Cut on a cutting mat, using a steel ruler and guiding the knife away from your body.
- Solvent adhesives, PVC adhesive and acetone are flammable, and some plastic adhesives contain dichloromethane; ventilate and follow the product safety instructions.
- A heat gun and heated material can cause burns. If EVA foam bubbles, it is too hot; foamed PVC changes colour and breaks down above 180 °C – never burn PVC.
- Wear safety glasses when sawing and drilling plastics, and extract dust or use respiratory protection.
Frequently asked questions
Which board is suitable for making models?
Use 3 or 5 mm foam board for quick study models. For detailed, durable models, use 3 mm foamed PVC with details made from 1 mm HIPS. For bases that must not bend, use an aluminium composite panel or PVC Celuka.
What is the difference between foam board and foamed PVC?
Foam board has a foam core between paper layers, is very lightweight, can be cut with a knife and is for dry indoor use. Foamed PVC is plastic throughout, withstands moisture, can be heat-bent, and white foamed PVC can also be used outdoors.
Which boards are transparent?
1 mm PET (thin and tough) and acrylic (rigid and glass-like). Milky PET lets light through but diffuses it.
Which boards can I use outdoors?
White foamed PVC, PVC Celuka, aluminium composite panels and acrylic. Not foam board – its paper layers absorb moisture and the board bends.
Which materials can I cut with just a craft knife?
Foam board, EVA foam, foamed PVC up to 3 mm, HIPS, PET and magnetic sheet. Score thin acrylic and 3 mm aluminium composite panels with several passes, then snap them over the edge of a table.
Which boards can be heat-bent?
EVA foam, foamed PVC, HIPS, ABS, PET and acrylic. Not foam board – its paper layers resist bending and its core is not heat-resistant. Aluminium composite panels can only be bent along a routed V-groove.
Which adhesive works on all plastics?
None. Solvent adhesives weld only the same type of plastic; cyanoacrylate, two-part adhesive or double-sided tape will join different materials, while PET needs tape or cyanoacrylate with primer.
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