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PD Media Mirrored polystyrene sheet PS 1 mm, gold -
PD Media Mirror-Finish Polystyrene Sheet PS 1 mm, Silver -
PD Media Celuka Foamed PVC Board with a hard surface 5 mm, white -
PD Media Celuka Foamed PVC Board with a hard surface, 3 mm, White -
PD Media Celuka Foamed PVC Board with Hard Surface 10 mm, White -
PD Media Foamed PVC Board, 5 mm, White -
PD Media Foamed PVC Board 3 mm, White -
PD Media PET sheet 1 mm, clear, 25 × 30 cm -
PD Media PET sheet 1 mm, milky white, 25 × 30 cm -
PD Media Polystyrene HIPS Sheet, 1 mm, black -
PD Media HIPS Polystyrene Sheet, 1 mm, White -
PD Media ABS Sheet 5 mm, black -
PD Media black ABS sheet, 3 mm -
PD Media Foamed PVC Board, 10 mm, 20 × 30 cm, White
PVC and plastic sheets are rigid plastics for model-making and crafts: foamed PVC and PVC Celuka for lightweight, sturdy walls and bases; HIPS for details and vacuum forming; ABS for tough parts; PET for windows and diffused light; and mirrored polystyrene for shatter-resistant mirrored surfaces. Score and snap 1 mm sheets, cut 3 mm foamed PVC with a knife, and use a saw for thicker sheets. Each plastic needs a different adhesive.
PVC and plastic sheets are a staple for model makers building structures, dioramas and terrain from scratch, and are also used for cosplay and lighting projects. Find out what each plastic is suited to, how to cut it and what to glue it with. Foamed PVC is lightweight and moisture-resistant; HIPS is thin polystyrene for details; ABS is tougher; PET is clear or milky white; and mirrored polystyrene replaces glass mirrors where glass might break. See how to combine plastics with foam board and EVA foam on our diorama and model making materials page.
PVC and plastic sheets for models, dioramas and crafts
PVC and plastic sheets: which plastic to choose and how to work with it
How to score and snap thin plastic (HIPS, PET and mirrored PS)
Do not cut all the way through 1 mm sheets. Score a line and snap the sheet for a straight break and a clean edge.
You will need:
cutting mat · steel ruler · sharp modelling knife or plastic scriber · fine marker · sanding stick or fine file
- Leave the protective film on the sheet, especially on PET and mirrored polystyrene.
- Mark the line with a fine marker on the back. Mark and score mirrored polystyrene on its white backing: a score on the mirrored face will scratch it and the break will not be straight.
- Hold the steel ruler firmly, keep your fingers flat and well away from its edge, and run the knife along the line 2–3 times. Score only; do not cut through.
- Place the score over the edge of a table and bend the sheet away from the score; it will snap along the line.
- Smooth the edge with a sanding stick or the back of a blade. Use a file to even up thicker parts.
- For curves, score lightly several times and snap in short sections. You can also cut 1 mm PET with curved scissors.
How to cut and drill foamed PVC, Celuka and ABS
Cut foamed PVC up to 3 mm thick with a knife; use a saw for thicker sheets, Celuka and ABS. Chips fly when sawing and drilling, so wear safety glasses.
You will need:
cutting mat · steel ruler · snap-off knife · fine-toothed saw or jigsaw with a plastic-cutting blade · clamps · twist drill bit · file or sanding block · safety glasses and dust protection
- Cut foamed PVC up to 3 mm thick with a knife along a steel ruler secured with a clamp, using several light passes. This gives a better result than one heavy cut.
- Cut 5–10 mm sheets and ABS with a jigsaw fitted with a blade marked for plastic, or with a fine-toothed saw: use a high speed and feed slowly.
- Clamp the sheet close to the cut line so it does not vibrate. Wear safety glasses whenever your work creates chips.
- Celuka and ABS are harder: expect to make several passes and keep a new blade to hand.
- A standard twist drill bit is enough for holes. For deep holes, withdraw the bit regularly to prevent the material overheating; do not use coolant.
- Smooth the edge with a file or sanding block. The open cells show on the edge of thick foamed PVC – fill them with filler and sand smooth.
Which adhesive to use for each plastic
Solvent adhesives weld only plastics of the same type. Choose your adhesive to suit both materials being joined.
You will need:
isopropyl alcohol · small brush · liquid plastic model glue · PVC adhesive · cyanoacrylate adhesive · double-sided tape · clamps or masking tape
- Clean the surfaces to be glued: they must be dry and free of dust and grease. Degrease PVC with isopropyl alcohol, not acetone; acetone will dull PVC.
- HIPS to HIPS: hold the parts together and use a brush to apply a thin line of liquid plastic model glue to the joint. It wicks into the joint, softens both surfaces and welds them together. Use a small amount; excess will dissolve details. For mirrored polystyrene, glue only the back or edges and test first.
- PVC to PVC: use PVC adhesive containing THF; choose a clear adhesive for visible joints. THF is flammable, so ventilate well.
- ABS to ABS: use ABS adhesive or solvent-weld with acetone. Fill gaps with a paste made from ABS shavings dissolved in acetone.
- Different materials, such as PVC with wood, metal or foam: use cyanoacrylate for small parts; for larger areas, use contact adhesive, two-part epoxy or PU adhesive, or double-sided tape.
- PET has low surface energy: use strong double-sided tape, cyanoacrylate with primer for hard-to-bond plastics, or structural acrylic adhesive. Lightly roughening the surface to be glued can help; polystyrene glue will not bond it.
- Secure the joint with clamps or tape and leave it to cure according to the adhesive instructions. Test each combination on a scrap first.
Tips for working with PVC and plastic sheets
- Score HIPS with the back of a modelling blade or a scriber; this removes a thin strip of material instead of pushing it upwards.
- Use black HIPS for interiors and to block out light behind windows; use white where you plan to paint the part.
- Milky PET and an LED strip make an evenly lit panel for a light box or model display.
- Staples hold in foamed PVC, even close to the edge, without cracking it.
- When shaping with heat, monitor the sheet temperature, not the heat gun setting: foamed PVC about 120–130 °C, HIPS 150–175 °C, ABS 150–180 °C, PET 120–160 °C. If possible, measure with an infrared thermometer.
- For hot bending, use a radius of at least twice the thickness of the foamed PVC. Cold bending is only for sheets up to 6 mm thick, at a temperature of at least 20 °C, and with a radius of at least 100 times the thickness – 300 mm for a 3 mm sheet.
- Before vacuum forming PET or ABS, make a test piece; both have a narrower temperature range than HIPS.
- Wipe static dust off with a damp anti-static cloth before painting – only after all gluing is done, as anti-static products reduce adhesive grip.
✓ Do
- Choose adhesive to suit the plastic: plastic model glue for polystyrene, PVC adhesive for PVC, acetone or ABS adhesive for ABS, and tape or cyanoacrylate with primer for PET.
- Ventilate when using solvent adhesives and read the adhesive safety data sheet.
- Wear safety glasses when sawing and drilling.
- Leave protective films on the sheets until you have finished working.
- Before painting, degrease the plastic with isopropyl alcohol, lightly sand with fine sandpaper and apply a plastic primer; use acrylic paints for indoor models.
- Test heat, adhesive and paint on a scrap first.
✗ Avoid
- Never burn PVC or cut it with a laser: heated or burning PVC releases hydrogen chloride, which is corrosive and poisonous and can also damage laser optics.
- Do not laser-cut ABS either – it melts and releases toxic fumes.
- Do not heat foamed PVC above approximately 180 °C: it will change colour and start to decompose.
- Do not clean PVC with acetone, petrol, toluene, methyl ethyl ketone or THF – it will swell or dissolve.
- Do not use polystyrene glue on PET or PVC – it will not bond them.
- Do not leave sheets in direct sunlight behind glass or outdoors in packaging; heat behind glass (up to 80 °C in a display window) will deform them.
Handling and storing plastic sheets
Store sheets flat and horizontal, without tension, in a dry place at around 20 °C, not outdoors. Carry large, thin sheets by both long edges, never by one corner – they could break. Plastics are more brittle when cold, so let them warm to room temperature before cutting. Keep PET and mirrored polystyrene in their protective film until installation, and clean them with a soft cloth, water and mild soap, without abrasive products. Foamed PVC expands by about 0.07 mm per metre per degree, so drill larger mounting holes for outdoor signs.
Working safely
- Do not burn or laser-cut PVC – overheating releases hydrogen chloride, which irritates the respiratory tract.
- Solvent adhesives, PVC adhesive and acetone are flammable; some plastic adhesives contain dichloromethane, whose fumes are toxic and heavier than air. Ventilate, wear gloves, keep them away from flames and follow the label.
- Wear safety glasses when sawing and drilling, and extract dust or use dust protection.
- Hot sheets and heat-gun nozzles can cause burns – wear heat-resistant gloves and place the heat gun on a heat-resistant surface. Cyanoacrylate bonds skin instantly: do not pull it apart; loosen it with acetone or warm soapy water.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between foamed PVC and PVC Celuka?
Both are foamed PVC. Celuka has a dense surface layer formed in the same process as its core, so it is harder, smoother and more resistant to dents, but heavier. Standard foamed PVC is lighter and has an even matt surface.
Can you cut 3 mm PVC sheet with a knife?
Yes. Place it on a cutting mat, position a steel ruler and run a sharp knife along it with several light passes. Cut 5 and 10 mm sheets with a fine-toothed saw or a jigsaw with a plastic-cutting blade.
What should you use to glue HIPS (polystyrene sheet)?
Liquid plastic model glue: it softens both surfaces and welds them together. For HIPS joined to another material, use cyanoacrylate adhesive and test it on a scrap first.
How do you glue PET sheet?
PET is difficult to glue because it has low surface energy. Use strong double-sided tape, cyanoacrylate with primer for hard-to-bond plastics, or structural acrylic adhesive, and always test first. Polystyrene glue will not bond PET.
Can you bend PVC sheet with a hairdryer?
A hairdryer is not powerful enough; use a heat gun or strip heater. Foamed PVC is shaped at a sheet temperature of about 120–130 °C. A change in colour or bubbles means it has overheated; white marks and cracking mean the temperature is too low or the material is overstressed.
ABS or HIPS for cosplay armour?
ABS is tougher and more impact-resistant, so it suits sturdy plates. HIPS is easier to cut and glue, and is suitable for details and overlays. Both can be shaped with heat.
Which plastic is suitable for home vacuum forming?
1 mm HIPS – it forms at 150–175 °C, is forgiving to work with and does not need drying. For clear parts, use PET (120–160 °C; overheating makes it cloudy and brittle); for hard shells, use ABS, which must be dried before forming.
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